Wednesday, November 28, 2007

Sorry for Lack of Blogs

Just a quick note to apologize for the lack of blogs over the past few days. We´re a bit removed from civilization, and the internet connections are both expensive and terrible. When I have to spend 5 minutes waiting for a page to load, blogging becomes a bit too frustrating.

We´ve had a good time in the last few days in the mountain town of El Chaltén, up in the Andes. Most of the streets in the town are still unpaved, and the scenery we´ve encountered on our hikes has been amazing!

In a couple of days, we´ll be in a bigger city and will be able to spend a little more time online, during which we should be able to update the blog a bit.

In other news, can the Redskins rewind the clock a few days? What a horrible week for a football team.

Friday, November 23, 2007

March with the Penguins

We arrived early this morning in Puerto Madryn, on the Atlantic coast, about 850 miles or so south of Buenos Aires. We had called to make reservations for lodging last night, but every place in our travel book that was in our price range was sold out. So, the first order of business involved finding a place to stay, which we managed to take care of pretty quickly, while somehow finding a place that´s actually a pretty good value, and not too far from the center of town, so we were happy about that.

We had planned on going sightseeing on the Peninsula Valdés today, which is home to all sorts of marine life that is fairly difficult to see, especially in similar numbers, nearly anywhere else in the world. Among the highlights of such a tour was to be a whale-watching boat trip. This time of year is when the Southern Right Whales venture toward the shallower waters to give birth, and they frequently swim right up next to tour boats, affording amazing and dramatic views just a few meters off the boat.

However, when we got off the bus, we were immediately slapped in the face by a brisk, chilling wind, and it turned out that all the boat tours were closed, so we were forced to postpone that until tomorrow.

Instead, we found a tour going south to Punta Tombo, a spot on the coast about 125 miles south of here, to a nature reserve that is home to several hundred thousand Magellanic Penguins, as well as numerous other birds, and llama relatives called guanacos, which live amongst the penguins, but only eat plants. It´s a comical sight to see them walking with the penguins, as the guanacos are easily taller than I am.

We were certainly not disappointed. Home to the largest penguin colony outside of Antarctica, there were times when we had to stop in our tracks to let a fearless set of penguins cross the trail within a few feet of us. We took pictures of each of us only 3 or 4 feet from a penguin, and then penguins seemed content to stand there and pose for us. Everywhere we looked, we saw penguins. Many were down in holes they had dug under scrub bushes typical of the Patagonian soil (tall trees don´t grow because of the constant wind). Others were out sunning themselves when the wind would die down for a few minutes, while still others waddled along in a seemingly aimless fashion. Still others were out fishing in the frigid waters, diving and then resurfacing, while riding the waves back to the shore. The penguins thrive in this area due to having virtually no predators.

Perhaps most remarkable of all was the sight of numerous mother penguins nursing their young. This time of year is generally when eggs hatch, and we probably saw about 50 penguins sitting on their eggs, and at least that many caring for their newborns. Some of the newborns were old enough to be out sitting beside the mom (while still in their protective holes), while others were clearly no more than a few days old and, despite their best efforts, were not allowed out from underneath the mother´s protective warmth. We took quite a few pictures and movies, so we´ll have to see how they come out when we get home. Nevertheless, it was an unforgettable experience.

On our way home, we stopped at a Paleontological museum in the city of Trelew, which, while nowhere near as cool as a penguin colony, was still interesting. It had many fossils and recreations of various prehistoric creatures that lived in what is now Patagonia. From there, we drove through a traditional Welsh town, which exists down here due to the fact that the Welsh were the first Europeans to permanently settle in this particular part of Patagonia. Argentina is quite the melting pot, with distinct immigrant groups from nearly any European country you could imagine.

When we got home, we walked along the beach and managed to see a whale within about 100 yards of the shore. I can´t say for sure exactly what kind it was, but it was at least 5 meters long, and was swimming on the surface for quite some time. It certainly managed to whet our appetite for tomorrow!

Ok, time to go sample some of the area´s famous seafood!

Go Hoos!


Thursday, November 22, 2007

Happy Thanksgiving!

Just wanted to wish everyone back home a happy Thanksgiving!

It´s been a bit strange this year, celebrating Thanksgiving away from any other Americans. In other words, not celebrating it at all, beyond saying, "Happy Thanksgiving" to each other. Naturally, everything around here is just as it´s been every other day we´ve been here.

Today, rather than celebrate as usual by eating a lot and sitting on the couch watching football, we completed a 20-km hike in the Cajón del Azul, which is a beautiful canyon in the low Andes, and the Azul is a river that is, shockingly for Spanish speakers, quite blue, as it´s fed by glacial waters and snowmelt. At the top of the hike, the river carves a high and very narrow gorge and makes for an amazing sight. It´s about 40 m deep and only about 2 m wide. Pretty amazing, for sure. We also had some great views over some alpine meadows and on to some of the higher, snow-covered peaks.

Anyway, I´m going to sign off. We´ll detail these last couple of days in El Bolsón more when we get a chance, but we´re going to catch our bus to the east coast of Argentina where we hope to see penguins and southern right whales.


Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Chocolate Lanugage Barriers

This entry refers to the above entry "Bariloche," specifically the section toward the end about buying some of Bariloche´s well-known chocolates.

With the whole camera fiasco, we were running a bit late on time, and I wanted to call ahead to El Bolsón and make sure we had a place to stay for the night. As such, I left Erin in the chocolate store while I went off to make some phone calls.

Right before I left, Erin asked me, "How do you say that word?"

"Circuela," I replied, having no idea what it meant.

So, I made my phone calls, came back and found Erin holding a box of chocolates. I confirmed that she had no problems, and we moved on.

As we got settled on the bus, we decided to cheer ourselves up by treating ourselves to one of our chocolates. Erin had bought two of each kind, so we each picked out the same thing.

Immediately following my first (sizeable) bite was the unmistakeable taste of a really big, horrible-tasting raisin. Apparently, in the interests of regularity, Erin had decided to buy us each a chocolate-covered prune. We finished our "treats," but had to follow it with a substantial helping of water to wash the aftertaste away.

I can safely say the following:
1 - It was the best-tasting prune I´ve ever had.
2 - It was the worst-tasting chocolate I´ve ever had (taken as a whole, not the chocolate alone).

I guess it depends if you´re a glass is half-empty or half-full kind of person.

Fortunately, the rest of the chocolates have been what we had hoped for.


The River Wild

We´ve been spending the last couple of days in the charming town of El Bolsón in Patagonia. Our days here were planned as low-key and relaxing days, but it seems like a sense of adventure seems to follow us wherever we go.

This morning, we headed to the Lago Puelo National Park, which is a small park based around a stunning lake that borders Chile. We wanted to do some hiking, and had heard about a great trail that takes you up to the Chilean border. We asked about the hike in the Park Ranger's office, and they were concerned about the height of the river and wanted to check it out for themselves before we were cleared to go. So, we had a nice, guided walk over to the river with a very helpful ranger. We got to the river's edge and he said declared it as "likely passable." Now, you must know that this trail involves you crossing through the river three times each way on the trail. So, that's six river crossings with approximately 7 hours of trail hiking in between. The river is also fed by snow melt from the Andes glaciers, so the water was nice and brisk, as well. The water was also moving very fast, so the ranger wanted to watch us cross the first arm of the river before he left us to our own devices. Rob graciously asked me if I was comfortable with this, to which I replied that I was a little nervous and intimidated, but still game for the experience. So, we decided to give it a shot. Rob headed out first, and then I braved the glacial waters. We waded in, wet up to our thighs (and hips for me), and I was struggling to remain standing. The ranger had found us both a couple of good walking sticks, but those were doing very little to help me with the current moving so fast. Rob, astutely reading the concern and mild panic in my eyes, again checked in to see if I was ok. If we only had to do this once or twice, I wouldn´t have hestitated to continue. However, at this point, we were going to have to cross like this 5 1/2 more times. So, I said "uncle" and we both headed back.

I thought I'd had my adventure for the day, but there was more in store for me. We decided to take a guided boat trip across the lake the the Chilean border, and ended up with a private tour. We had an amazing guide and were just about the only people out on this gorgeous lake, which had some of the clearest blue water we've seen. Our guide took us on a short hike around the area where the lake meets the Rio Puelo. We enjoyed our hike, and had incredible views of the rapids. We were crossing back to the shore were we docked our boat and came to a narrow part of the Rio Puelo. It was a short crossing and there were plenty of rocks to act as step stones, so we thought it would be fine. I was the last one across, and got out the middle of the crossing with no problems. Then, I took a step with a little too much momentum, completely lost my balance and fell backwards into the river. I got a couple of scrapes and bumps, but was otherwise fine. Apparently, I looked a little panicky and disoriented, but once Rob was there to help me out, I was fine and laughing about the whole thing. AT least I fell into a river in one of the most scenic places I've seen!



Sunday was spent in the fantastic Andean town of Bariloche. We arrived late Saturday night, settled into our hotel, found some food, and had an otherwise early night and got some needed sleep.

The next morning we awoke to an unbelievable view (though for said view, I had to lean about 2/3 of my body out the window and crane my neck around a building). Bariloche lies on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi, which is a large lake and the basis for one of the largest national parks in Argentina. Bariloche is the southernmost town of any size in the Andes, and serves as the gateway for the Lake District and the ski slopes, depending on the season. As the town slopes upward from the shore of the lake, it is generally possible to see the lake from nearly any point in the town. This time of year, after ski season and before summer vacations begin, the town is quite peaceful, although we were glad to not be there in a month or so.

We began our day by boarding a bus for the Hotel Llao Llao (pronounced "zhow zhow" - Argentines pronounce y and ll like a soft j sound, which makes understanding them even harder than it should be). The hotel is a luxury resort, complete with its own golf course, at the end of a long road that goes along the lakeside for some 30 km. The hotel is perched atop a hill with unbelievable views of the nearby lakes and snow-capped mountains, and while it would cost our entire retirement accounts to spend a night there, it was certainly fun to walk around. Adding to the charm of the town is that it was originally settled by Swiss immigrants, and thus features many Swiss chalet style alpine chalet buildings in the downtown area.

After some walking around, we got on the bus back toward Bariloche, and got off about halfway back in order to take a cable car up to the top of one of the nearby mountains, hoping for a nice lunch at the top with panoramic views of the lakes, but we found that it was closed for renovation and repairs. After punching Marty Moose in the nose and shooting John Candy with a bb gun, we got back on the bus bound for a chair lift to the top of another mountain, and then got off.

When I got off the bus, immediately as it pulled off, I realized that I no longer had my camera. We felt around for it in all our pockets and backpacks, and couldn´t find it at all. Since the buses were on a loop, I waited until our bus came back around, had the driver ask if anyone had seen a camera, but alas, it was gone. I was wearing a baggier than normal pair of pants with shallow pockets, and the camera must have fallen out of my pocket while I was sitting on the bus. Not surprisingly, it had disappeared by the time we got back on the bus. I don´t think it was a pick-pocket situation because the bus wasn´t crowded, and I´m extremely attentive to that type of thing (eastern European buses will do that to you).

Feeling somewhat dejected, we headed back toward town to get some food and ponder our options. We debated buying a new camera if we could find the camera we wanted, but it seems like the Canon Powershot line, which we love (gratuitous product placement) hasn´t arrived in this part of the world yet. I did some brief camera research on cnet for some of the types of cameras they did have for sale, but all of the decent ones were selling for well above what they would cost in the US, and it just wasn´t worth buying a new one. Fortunately, we brought our old camera, and will use it for the remainder of the trip (while keeping it in more secure pockets, of course). Expensive lesson learned, but then again, if that is the worst tragedy to befall us in the next few years, we´re doing pretty well for ourselves.

Fortunately for our mild state of depression, Bariloche is known for, perhaps most of all, its exquisite selection of chocolate. As such, before leaving, we purchased a box of chocolates before getting on the bus to El Bolsón, where we find ourselves now.


Monday, November 19, 2007


Here´s the summary from our trip to Iguazú Falls.

Last Wednesday night, we boarded a Via Bariloche bus bound for Iguazú Falls in the northeastern rainforest of Argentina. No one´s ever excited about an overnight bus, but I particuarly detest them, since I have a fair amount of trouble sleeping on moving vehicles. However, as soon as we boarded this bus, we wondered if we would ever have to get off. The seats lean nearly all the way back (at least as far as your friendly dentist chair, but a lot more comfortable), and leg room isn´t at all an issue for anyone smaller than Yao Ming. As soon as we got on, they served us coffee and cookies, followed by dinner, with wine, and then champagne after dinner. All the windows are blocked by curtains, and it gets nearly completely dark on the bus. They played one movie after dinner, in English with Spanish subtitles, and then another the next morning after breakfast, so before we knew it, we had arrived in Iguazú.

We dropped our belongings off at the Residencia Noelia, a charming though (very) rustic family-run lodging in the town of Puerto Iguazú, some 15 km from the actual national park containing the waterfalls. Our Brazil fiasco detailed in a prior entry ensued, so we headed to the friendlier Argentina side of the park.

Being relatively late in the afternoon already, we walked around the relatively massive visitor center, hiked a short jungle trail, and then boarded a quiet gas-powered train for the far end of the park. Although the train didn´t go faster than about 5 mph, it was a pleasant ride. We disembarked at the trail called the "Garganta del diablo" (Devil´s throat), and walked for perhaps a mile along a catwalk sort of trail over a series of branches of the main river, lagoons, etc, through the jungle wetlands en route to the view of the falls.

To attempt to describe the initial view of the falls without pictures is extremely difficult, but I suppose I have to try. Anyone who has visited the Grand Canyon has known a similar feeling. The initial breathless moment when one first comes into view of the falls is one that can´t really be put into words. We were standing on the end of the catwalk, not quite completely over the edge of the falls, but close enough to make us glad that we weren´t on the construction team that built the trail. An unbelievably powerful surge of water was falling several hundred feet to the river below, and although I never found an exact report of the volume of water flowing, I can state scientifically that it was "a lot." We stood there for a while, noted that we were delighted to not be afraid of heights, and then went back toward the train.

We took the train back, and then walked the set of trails known as the Upper Circuit, which walks for a mile or so along the upper rim of the falls, providing less spectacular, but more panoramic views of the overall falls. As the falls run for at least 2 miles, it´s quite a sight to behold.

The next morning, we got up and did a relatively long hike into the jungle that allegedly was good for wildlife viewing. I´ll list below the animals we saw, but it was a nice hike to get us away from the tourists that clog the main trails in the park. This one is on the other side of the park from the falls and requires a bit more fitness, repelling a lot of the tour groups closer to the falls. The hike culminated with a trip to the top and then the bottom (not in a barrel) of a smaller (100 foot) falls, and it was quite a view to have to ourselves.

We came back to the visitor center, cooled off a bit, and then walked the Lower Circuit. It was, not surprisingly, similar to the Upper Circuit, except it was lower. Shocking. The trail allowed us to walk down closer to some of the falls, providing similar panoramic views, with the added advantage of getting wet. The trail went all the way down to the river, where all sorts of boats take off to go under the falls.

Animals we saw on our hikes:
2 Toucans
Ridiculously large lizards (over 2 feet long).
Coati (look like insanely huge raccoons, we even saw some in trees)
Idiots feeding the coatis from their hands, despite them carrying all sorts of diseases, and standing 2 feet from signs discouraging feeding the coatis.
Red Deer
Some marmot-looking thing.
Vultures (tons of different types, circling above the falls)
Hummingbirds (really bright, many different colors, some got within feet of us)
Numerous other birds I´d never seen before.
A poisonous butterfly
A non-poisonous butterfly the size of an adult human hand
Ants over an inch long
Sparrows - not exciting in and of themselves, but they actually live in the cliffs behind the waterfalls, and to get to their nests, they dive through the falls at fantastic speeds...quite a sight.

I think that´s it.

We had our favorite dinner in Argentina at a restaurant called La Rueda. I had homemade ravioli, Erin had gnocchi, and we split some smoked surubí, a fish caught locally in the Rio Iguazú. Combined with the atmosphere in the restaurant and a bottle of Torrontés, it was hard to beat!

Ok, this is long, so I´ll sign off and write more tomorrow.


Saturday, November 17, 2007

Patagonia Bound

Today was primarily a travel day. As it´s late, I won´t post much, since we need to get some food. We left the Iguazu Falls this morning and flew down to Bariloche, which is in the Andes, about halfway down the length of the country from north to south.

We left the rainforest this morning to already hot and humid temperatures, so the current temperature of about 46 degrees and fairly breezy has come as something of a shock. On the other hand, it´s probably a good thing for those around us, since we can finally wear our cold-weather clothes, which is the bulk of what we brought. Suffice it to say that our short-sleeve stuff could use a healthy scrubbing.

We had a great time at the falls, and will post more about it later on when time allows. We´ll stay in Bariloche for tonight and most of the day tomorrow before taking a bus down to a smaller and less tourist-infested town a couple of hours south of here, called El Bolsón, and then will spend a few low-key days there.

Rob and Erin

Thursday, November 15, 2007

A Run for the Border

So we arrived this morning after a long and ridiculously comfortable bus ride (more in another entry) in Puerto Iguazu, the town at the junction of Brazil, Paraguay, and Arentina, and near the site of the famous Iguazu Falls, the largest (though not highest) waterfalls in South America.

Our guide book recommended seeing the falls from the Brazilian side of the border one day, and then the Argentine side the next. It said that the Brazilian side required less time, and since we arrived late in the morning, we decided to head for Brazil once we got settled.

In general, American citizens need visas to enter Brazil. This wouldn´t be a problem, but they charge US $100 for each visa, and that would be a fairly frivolous expense to spend 2 hours in their country. Fortunately, however, our guidebooks and various travel message boards said that a visa is not required to simply visit the falls in a day visit, so we got on the bus to Brazil.

We cleared Argentine immigration without a problem, but you can probably guess that I wouldn´t be typing this story if everything went smoothly. When we got to the Brazilian border, we noticed that all the buses were simply flying through the border, and we assumed we would do the same. However, the driver stopped, made us get off (everyone else was Brazilian), and go to immigration. When my mild protest fell on deaf ears, we began a walk of shame back to the Argentine border. The real problem with this, however, was that the border offices were each about 3 km from their respective borders, so we got to walk over 3 miles back to the Argentine office, get stamped back in the country (while explaining why we had left the country for an hour in the first place).

Fortunately, it wasn´t an unpleasant walk. The border itself is the middle of a river, and the bridge crossing it towers over the river by at least 200 feet, and affords long views in each direction along the river. Plus, we at least got to walk for a while in Brazil, so I can sort of scratch another country off my list. As an additional bonus, we were able to take pictures of us sitting on the border, with one cheek in each country. Go us! Seriously, how many people can say that?

When all was said and done, we got to the border, got another Argentine stamp, and caught a bus back into town. We did have to somewhat nervously eye a passing policeman as we walked, but other than a few weird expressions at the dumb American tourists, we had no real problems. U-S-A!!!!

We´re famous!

Well, not really. But we might be.

While we were waiting in line to buy our tickets to go to Uruguay, we noticed a news crew filming people in line and interviewing them. Making our American passports very visible, I assumed naturally that they would skip us and move on to other people. Wrong.

So, it turns out that in Argentina, Tuesday the 13th is an unlucky day. It´s very similar to our Friday the 13th, in that if you´re a believer in bad luck, you shouldn´t travel, or do anything that could be potentially dangerous. As such, we were violating Argentine rules of luck by traveling on the 13th, so they were asking people about it.

They were conducting the interview in English, so we naturally answered in English. They asked if we were aware of the bad luck associated with Tuesday the 13th, so I explained that our bad luck day was supposedly Friday the 13th. I said that I was okay with traveling because I don´t really believe in luck, and I certainly wouldn´t alter my plans to accomodate a bad luck day. Erin said more or less the same things.

We assume that we´ll end up on some comedy show where they flash Spanish subtitles across the screen that don´t in the least match what we said, but that´s ok. At the very least, maybe we´ll end up on youtube or something!

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Don´t Cry for Us, Buenos Aires

With all the monuments to Eva Peron (Evita) down here, you had to know an Evita reference was going to show up eventually. Well, there it is, and I promise not to make any more.

Our time in BsAs is coming to a close, as we prepare to head up to the northeast corner of Argentina to see the fabulous falls of Iguazu. We leave for an overnight bus ride here in the next hour or so, but apparently the seats lie nearly all the way back, so it should be reasonably pleasant, as far as long bus trips go. Certainly compared to the Greyhound (see our Trips section), it should be a walk in the park.

We had a great time today touring the barrio known as San Telmo, the bohemian/artsy area of the city. We saw a mini-milonga in one of the main squares, as all sorts of people were tangoing to the delight of the assembled crowds. We think it was part of a TV shoot, as there were cameras everywhere and the main section was cordoned off.

We also spent some time walking along the waterside area, near the main port of BsAs, which is being fashioned into a chic restaurant-filled area where things cost far, far more than in the other parts of the city. On the other side of the canal, there´s a wildlife and ecological reserve, so it made for some pleasant walking.

But, we need to go catch our bus!


Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Mmm...You can really taste the goat.

Well, country #2 is in the books, as I write this blog entry from Uruguay, from the town of Colonia del Sacramento, a small city across the Rio Plata from Buenos Aires, at a distance of about 35 miles or so. The town has a quaint barrio historico in the Portuguese colonial style, surrounded on three sides by water. The weather hasn´t cooperated like we would have hoped, but we´ve still had a great time exploring this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Many of the streets are as they would have been 200 or more years ago, with uneven rocks (quite a trick in today´s weather) and houses lining both sides of the street, in many cases only 15 feet apart. There is an old lighthouse that stands some 30 m above the water, and afforded some great views of the surrounding countryside and the rest of the city, including 5 km of beaches that would have been nice on a better weather day.

The title of the blog entry, for those who aren´t Simpsons fans, is a quote from Homer, and was fitting today, as I tried a local specialty called "chivito," or baby goat. I´ve had to fend of PETA folks all day, but it was in fact quite good. Come to think of it, PETA probably wouldn´t be huge fans of this part of the world in general, as most people seem to be rather carniverous.

A couple of side notes:
1) Birds in Buenos Aires have good aim. I got hit twice yesterday, while Erin got hit once. I´ve now been pooped on by birds on three different continents.
2) Typing over here is a pain. The keyboards are similar enough to seem familiar, but different enough so that all the special characters are changed, and causing one to type all sorts of random characters if not careful. As an example, to type a "@", you have to hit one of the two alt keys, in addition to the 2 key. The other alt key doesn´t work. Go figure. sdñºç.

Monday, November 12, 2007

Greetings from Argentina!

Well, it´s time to resurrect this puppy.

As many of you know, I´m in Argentina for the next 5 weeks with Erin. We´re heading all over the country during our first jaunt to the Southern Hemisphere.

We arrived late Sunday morning to find that Erin´s bag didn´t make it. Fortunately, they said that the bag was still in Dallas (evidently a 2.5 hour layover was insufficient) and that it would be here today (Monday), and sure enough, they delivered it to our hotel this afternoon.

Sunday was relatively low-key for us, as we obviously didn´t get a ton of sleep on the plane overnight. We took a fairly long nap upon our arrival at the hotel in Buenos Aires, and then went out and toured the downtown area of the city. We saw the widest street in the world (according to the Argentines, anyway), called the Avenida 9 de julio, which in places has 11 lanes going in each direction. We saw the Casa Rosada (pink house), where the head of government lives, and for fans of Hollywood and show tunes, where Evita addressed empassioned throngs from the balcony back in the 40´s. We also went in the Catedral Metropolitano, which is the primary cathedral of the city. Otherwise, we walked around a lot, and had our first bottle of Argentine wine, for about $5. I haven´t seen a single bottle on a menu here that is over $30 US.

Today, we saw two of the more posh neighborhoods in the city, called Recoleta and Palermo. Recoleta has a famous cemetary, in which many famous porteños (residents of BsAs) are buried, including Evita herself, as well as past presidents and military leaders. It is basically a small city unto itself, as everyone is buried in large mausoleums with no space between them. Palermo is where a lot of the old money in BsAs is, and there are many old buildings in the colonial style next to chic boutiques and the like. Both of these barrios have ample green space, and on a perfect weather day such as this, people were outside en masse.

They say this city is the "Paris of South America", and while I don´t entirely agree with that (porteños are nicer than Parisians), it´s pretty easy to see why. While there are plenty of less than savory parts of town, much of the downtown area is full of beautiful parks, classical/colonial architecture, and wide, tree-lined boulevards.

Tomorrow, if all goes as planned (never a certainty down here), then we´ll head to the town of Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay for the day. It´s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and we´ve heard nothing but great things about it. The weather is supposed to be horrible, but compared to what we expect in Patagonia, it´ll be a walk in the park, so hopefully it won´t be too bad!

We´re on e-mail fairly frequently, so write whenever you want to say hi!
Rob -
Erin -